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Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2025 1:09 pm
by AtomicRunner
I've done Plein Air for quite a while and my kit has shiflted a lot during the years. But at this point I found a few setups that work for me. One for "I am going out to draw" and another I can just have in the pockets of my jacket to draw something if I find myself with time on my hands. I mostly use watercolor but I want to do more gouache, I've just not found a right setup for it yet.

But yeah, from experience my kits have gotten smaller and smaller as time keeps passing. Less things, less colors, smaller bags. I find how much time it takes for you to be ready to draw and to pack up once you are done are key. I've carried plenty of things "just in case" that ended being more obstacles than actual help. Weight is also a great factor, and when it comes to watercolor and water media a bit of an issue: water is the one thing you cannot make smaller no matter how much you try.

As for my kits:

The "Time to go out and see if I paint anything" kit:
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I've tried multiple palletes over the years and still rotate over them, but I always come back to this small tin one. Having the space to hold a small mechanical pencil and a brush inside saves me a bit of space. Nowadays I reduced my palette to eight colors. I will talk about that after because what colors I used has been a thing I've spent way too much time thinking about over the years.

The sketchbook is a slightly under A5 watercolor sketchbook made by myself. Fabriano Artistico 100% cotton paper. I tend to be more sloppy when it comes to bookbind things for myself, as these things are going to be beaten up a lot by carrying them around, so i don't want something that delicate that I feel like I have to babysit.

The fountain pen contains waterproof pigment in. I mostly use Rohrer and Klingner SketchINK inks as are the ones I found to be more reliable and more unlikely to clog a pen if left for too long. I mostly have black, sepia and grey, but I want to get dark bluy and dark red for a less stark linework and to play with warm and cool lines.

Only one brush. I like flat brushes but I feel any full brush I bring ends being more of a hassle than anything. The brush is a Da Vinci Casaneo travel brush size 8, but I've used multiple collapsible brushes over the years. This one is just good and also I managed to get a few very heavily discounted. They are synthetic, closer to squirren than sable and therefore not having a tip for detail. But I find that synthetics that are made for detail end wearing out their tips way too fast. And besides, I am sketching outside, I should think more of Big Brushwork and less finnagling with thin lines.

For water aI use a Nalgene wide mouth 125ml jar. I used to carry two, one for mixing and another for clean water, but having two banging around ended being too much of a hassle and also it's double the weight. You may think that 250ml of water is not too much, and you are right. But when carrying kits like these around, a ounce is a pound and you end feeling every single extra gram of weight you did not need to carry. Anyway, this one's are really neat, watertight and resistant. I have throw them to the floor to test them and they hold up. So I can carry that dirty water with me until I find where to get it disposed.

And you know, a torn towel and kitchen paper for cleaning the brush after rinsing.

"I carry this in my pockets if my jacket allow me to" kit
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Almost the same kit, just everything way smaller.

The palette is a Daler Rowney student watercolor plastic palette with the interior ripped off and the half pans held on with blue tack. I used to use the same small watercolor palette than Minasheep but this one has way wider mixing areas and also is basically the shape of a thin smartphone, so it's really easy to pocket. Same colors as the biggest one plus one extra because having a row with only two pans bothered me. Can be held with clips int he page I am not using, I've also used it with the bigger sketchbook.

An A6 watercolor sketch, this one actually bought. It's a Seawhite of Brighton sketchbook, paper is not cotton but they are really good for how cheap they are. Sometimes I use watercolor postcards instead. I love painting postcards and sending them to people, it makes me happy.

Same fountain pen, whatever mechanical pencil I may have around that's not going to stab me by carrying it and two waterbrushes. I am becoming more of a convert of the waterbrush as time goes on. They don't apply washes as good as a proper brush, but their conveninence can't be beat. I am starting also to carry them instead of the entire brush and jar with the bigger sketchbook and I am happy with it. Yeah, I may miss in some watercolor kits, but when painting outside the less inconveniences you create for yourself the better.

Kitchen paper, easy to fold, easy to throw to a recycling bin once I am done, convenient.

The Colors

I should have not spend that much of my lifetime reading about colormaking, pigment properties and other stuff just to reach to this.
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Picking colors to paint outside it's interesting becuase your decision is affected by more than "how the color look like", for a plein air palette I tried mutliple things, but for watercolor what has worked for me is:
  • Compact, but not too compact: too many colors add to decision paralisis and paintings that look too busy, but also too little ends with you spending more time mixing than you may want. This one used to be twelve, managed to get to eight. I could get it down to six but the couple I could get out are colors I like.
  • Lightfast: for something that's going to be on a sketchbook is not that important, but I am very nitpicky in having evevery single thing I make to be as archival as possible
  • Transparent: Semi opaque and opaque colors are very useful, but they are trickier to use and very easy to mess up in a plein air context, so I keep them out. They are also harder to rinse from the brush, which you think is not a factor but when you are outside it really is.
  • Non toxic: or at least without any heavy metals in them. This one is way harder to accomplish as it leaves stuff like Pthalo Blue out, but I want my dirty water to be as safe as pour anywhere as possible.
  • Non staining: not exactly for doing lifting (I don't do much) but because staining paints tend to get the water dirty faster and also are harder to wash from the brush.
"Atomic, get around to the colors already"

Ok, ok, sorry. With these things in mind, and including pigment designation.
  • Nickel Azo Yello (PY150): The one of two transparent yellows avaialble (the other being Py128). Yellow is the backbone of your palette and getting one with these restrictions is very, very hard. And this one has nickel, so it already fails not containing a heavy metal and it's a bit staining. But it is less staining than the more overpowering PY128 and it is the moxt flexible yellow you can get. Warmer in masstone, colder diluted. Powerful enough it doesn't get lost in mixes and probably the best single yellow you can carry around.
  • Pyrrole Scarlet (PR255): Way warmer than the standard pyrrole red and more orange than what you would want to for a "ideal red" but it is transparent, mixes oranges very well and you can turn it into a fire engine red without much issue. It has become a staple.
  • Permanent Rose (PV19): Instead of a magenta. Very useful color for basically everything, specially skin colors. Not much to say about outside not all brands offer a lightfast PV19, so be a bit careful about it.
  • Perylene Maroon (PR179): Deep muted red. Not exactly esssential, but I like it a lot, I am a deep reds and maroons type of person. Also useful for shadows and skin colors.
  • Italian Earth or Raw Sienna, can't remember (PY42): Honestly, whatever transparent yellow earth tone I may be trying at the moment. I rotate this one a lot becuase I am still finding for my idea yellow earth tone. This and the red earth tone are two of the paints I use the most, so I go through a lot of these.
  • Transparent Red Iron Oxide (PR101): It's a bit wild on washes and tend to jump into other wet colors a lot, but I prefer it over standard Burnt Siennas for it's transparency and that I like the rusty look over a standard brown. I like my burnt sienna style color to be closer to a dull orange than a more chocolate brown.
  • French Ultramarine Blue (PB29): One of the few where I am a bit specific, Winsor and Newton one strikes the right hue for me and also has proven to be reliable, so I am sticking with that one. It's ultriamarine blue, what do you want me to say, it's THE blue. The other most used color, as it is a complementary with Transparent Red Oxide and the mix of the two is what I use as a shadow color and a black.
  • Pthalo Turquoise (PB16): The one oddity in my palette, copperless pthalo. It is way greener than other shadows of Pthalo (PB15) which makes it a bit less useful by itself but good for mixing colors. You get more intense greens and also it neuters ultramarine better for getting a fake ceruelan by adding a bit to it (cerulean is both non transparent and also contains cobalt, so as much as I love it I had to take it out).
And that's it. Sorry for writing a Wikipedia article, but more than "this is my kit" I wanted to give some of the path that has taken me to this point. Hope this is useful for anyone. Do not be afraid to ask for any specifics.

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2025 5:24 am
by amos
Whoa, awesome writeup. Picking a palette with no heavy metals is a respectable consideration, I just end up dumping that stuff into garbage cans...

Is that a Twsbi Eco for your pen? I finally tracked some down and I've been really enjoying drawing with them, but I'm not sure how rugged they are for carrying around for plein air. Has it been working out for you?

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2025 11:31 pm
by AtomicRunner
Yes, it's a TWSBI Eco. For plein air they are fine, I never had a problem with breaking them. I would say the Lamy Safari is more durable, but I never found myself in a situation where it got a bad hit. I ended getting one for the ink capacity so I don't have to worry about it while I am traveling.

They do have a smallish issue, and it's that once they start to get low on ink they can burp some of that ink sometimes if you hold them in your hand for too long. They are also prone to burp when you remove the cap while in a plane (difference of pressure) but that tends to be common among most fountain pens. It's just that the Eco has a lot of ink. For planes is better to pack something like a pigma or a uniball eye. I tend to keep the pen in the hold luggage inside a ziploc bag so there is no change of pressure.

I've also used a pen with a fude nib, the Lamy Safari (I have a few), and a Pilot Kakuno I got in Japan. I think the Eco has been the overall better option. The fude pen is nice, but also a tad too long and I end not using the line variation that much.

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2025 9:19 am
by amos
I keep hearing about ink burping but I've somehow not run into that problem yet. It's kind of cute that it happens just from holding the pen too long, like the air in the reservoir expands just enough.

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2025 11:34 am
by AtomicRunner
I have had it happening to me a few times, I guess my hands run a bit warm.

I am packing my stuff to go out and maybe draw if I find something nice enough, and I am wondering: how do people here handle carrying brushes for gouache? For watercolor it's easy enough for me: a collapsible round brush and that's it. But I feel gouache calls for having either flats or filberts, and there are no good collapsible options for sizes that I feel would be adequate. I've carried them in a wrap in a side pocket of my backpack, but I feel an entire brush roll for like three brushes is too overkill.

Liz Steel shorten them with a sharpener and then stick them with blue tack inside a toothbrush case, but I have not tried that one yet.

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2025 12:16 pm
by amos
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This is my like, "150%" kit - I don't carry everything here for plein air but everything I carry for plein air is here, if that makes sense. In particular the amount of brushes in the photo is complete overkill - I work at A5 at most, so I'm served well by just a ~1cm flat, a ~0.5cm flat, a rigging brush and maybe a fan brush if I know I'll be doing foliage. I also usually just use the portable painter micro palette with 5 colours, the blue tin is where my last remaining watercolour tins live.
AtomicRunner wrote: Sun Nov 23, 2025 11:34 am I am packing my stuff to go out and maybe draw if I find something nice enough, and I am wondering: how do people here handle carrying brushes for gouache? For watercolor it's easy enough for me: a collapsible round brush and that's it. But I feel gouache calls for having either flats or filberts, and there are no good collapsible options for sizes that I feel would be adequate. I've carried them in a wrap in a side pocket of my backpack, but I feel an entire brush roll for like three brushes is too overkill.

Liz Steel shorten them with a sharpener and then stick them with blue tack inside a toothbrush case, but I have not tried that one yet.
You can see my answer in the photo: I cut them down to fit them in my case, and then I either use the protective plastic they came with or I use these lil universal brush sleeve fishnets. IDK how widely available they are, I bought mine in Berlin and they are Da Vinci brand.

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 8:51 pm
by AtomicRunner
Yeah, you are right. And if you are using a 1 cm flat brush just fine I think Pro Arte makes both a filber and a flat of those sizes that are collapsible and are not very expensive, so may give it a shot. I do have a travel flat, a Casaneo, but I find it's a bit too short. Good for watercolor, will have to try it for gouache.

I will probably set the palette for gouache for my next family visit at some point this or next week, and I am going through the colors. Zorn + Blue is a good point to start, but am itching to try some stuff. Ultramarine blue is the most useful color, but I could go with Pthalo Turquoise instead. I have Perylene Black, which is a green so unsaturated that in masstone can pass for a black. Using it as replacement for a black could be a disaster (shifting a lot of things to green) but also could be really cool. A lot of the colors that would be a disaster to shade with it are colors you don't want to shade with black anyway. And I am thinking that using Buff Titanium (and unbleached white) instead of a standard "pure" white titanium could lead to less harsh tinting.

I will keep the forum posted on what I decided and how I pack for my trip. I want to pack light when it comes to painting, but I also feel like I want to paint postcards this time...

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2025 7:19 pm
by AtomicRunner
So while I was thinking about what colors to put in the palette and what to bring I thought I could just merge Zorn and the Velazquez palette. We all know what Zorn is, but the second one is a known limited palette in watercolor: yellow ochre, burnt sienna and ultramarine blue, and even sometimes just burn sienna and ultramarine blue. It is good for naturalistic landscapes and works pretty well as it only deals with values and temperature.

So it would be a matter of just grabbing Zorn and adding ultramarine blue and burnt sienna, and if you think only one red is enough you end with what people have commented above: Zorn + blue.

Now, all this is well and good, but the reason I am bringing this up is that I wanted to talk about this in this thread, and to give extra context to the "velazquez" palette, I was going to link one of the articles about palettes in Handprint. This one, and while reading it again, something stood up...
yellow ochre (PY43), burnt sienna (PBr7), ultramarine blue (PB29) • Although this palette sometimes goes by the name "Velázquez palette," it is not a palette characteristic of Velázquez, and it was used centuries before his time. The Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder describes the Greek painter Apelles (c.370 BCE) using a palette consisting only of "white from Milos, Attic yellow, red from Sinope and the black called atramentum" — that is, lead white, yellow ochre, red ochre and carbon black, black standing for all "cool" pigments. The Altamira cave paintings of 15,000 years ago are rendered in carbon black and red ochre on yellow limestone walls.
And that's... what people understand as the Zorn palette now, right? I guess we can call it the Apelles palette to be more pedantic. An interesting historical curio.

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2025 8:53 pm
by AtomicRunner
I may go for a dry media era next year? Has anyone have had a dry media kit in the past? Graphite is the old reliable, but I am thinking of trying either conté crayons or color pencils. Pastels may be a bit too messy, and I guess I could use some of those pigment markers faber-castell uses.

Re: What's your Plein Air kit is like?

Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2025 7:06 am
by nullnug
AtomicRunner wrote: Sat Dec 06, 2025 8:53 pm I may go for a dry media era next year? Has anyone have had a dry media kit in the past? Graphite is the old reliable, but I am thinking of trying either conté crayons or color pencils. Pastels may be a bit too messy, and I guess I could use some of those pigment markers faber-castell uses.
idk wut constitutes a kit, but i like charcoal and paint pens the most. easy enough to carry. just need paper and probably an eraser